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His Heart is in the Present

If I remember my life in colors, Cambodia will be green. Green when I ride my bike to work, with the sun shining through palm trees at all the right angles, and green on the way home, when the clouds hang ominously in the air, waiting to water the lush foliage framing the river.

And, most of all, green with youth. Children have a vibrancy and resilience that can only be captured by the color green. Wordsworth said the child is father to the man. I like to think about the kids at the center as little parents, sometimes, when I watch them play. Each one is a promise, with so much potential, and every experience shaping who they will become. There is something they have that I lost on the road to adulthood.

Despite my best efforts, I have a favorite: Penh Mao. He walks around the center with an impish glint in his smiling brown eyes and an ear to ear grin that seems almost too big for his face. At nine years old, he has undeniable charisma. The police found him begging on the streets of Poipet — a seedy town on Cambodia’s border with Thailand — and sent him to Homeland. But I bet he was the most successful beggar in Cambodia in his day: nobody could look at that face and resist. I can’t help being reminded of Jack Dawkins, the charming and clever ringleader of Fagin’s pickpockets in Oliver Twist, for while Penh Mao has Oliver’s innocence he has none of Oliver’s boring naiveté. He is all savvy, and I can easily imagine him terrorizing the streets of a city. The comparison always makes me laugh, but then, so does Penh Mao.

He is a normal size for his age, but I think of him as small because his intelligence makes him seem older than he really is. He’s exceptionally bright; as the other children struggle through my basic English classes in the mornings, he works independently on far more advanced assignments. To see such discerning eyes in a face so young would be unsettling, if the eyes weren’t constantly smiling back at me. Nobody is prouder of me than Penh Mao when I get a few new sentences in Khmer, and nobody is more patient in trying to filter through my mispronunciations.

Over the last month I have had plenty of opportunities to observe all these characteristics, but I knew he was special my first day at the center. It was oppressively hot, and the humidity seemed to hang on me like a blanket. When dark blue clouds descended in the afternoon sky, I rejoiced silently to myself. I was in the middle of a very poorly played badminton match in the courtyard of the center when the first rumblings sounded, and my partner grabbed the birdie and shouted a warning to the other children. They scattered almost instantaneously, running to the houses that surround the courtyard. I was left standing somewhat bewildered in the empty courtyard, hoping to enjoy every spare cool moment and reluctant to go inside. But two seconds later the sky came crashing down to the earth in torrential rain. I ran for the office, and stood on the covered patio, watching the rain and musing. It was my introduction to Cambodia’s monsoon season; Heaven had broken and an ocean was being unleashed.

Penh Mao sprinted past me. “Sous s’day Penh Mao!” I shouted. He turned around, slapped my hand and yelled “PENH MAO!” correcting my pronunciation with a wide grin. He raced to the center of the courtyard, shirtless and in loose cotton pants: one leg solid navy blue, the other thick navy and white stripes. Children looked on silently from the covered patios of the houses.

Penh Mao raised his arms up to the sky and paused for a few seconds, as if in thought. Then he threw his head back and yelled defiantly. The other boys sprinted from the houses, responding to Penh Mao’s summons. The courtyard became a shallow sea, and the young boys became warring gods, fighting fiercely as rain pounded them from above (pausing only to pull up their pants, which refused to stay on their slender waists).

They fought with ninja kicks, spins and blows. Penh Mao fought two, three, then four opponents! The potholes in the courtyard became small pools, breaking the young warriors’ spectacular falls. The subtle, Hollywood-esque pauses each fighter gave Penh Mao before attacking were almost imperceptible in their brevity, so he really seemed to be fighting them all at once.

The rain forced me inside the office, but I glanced up incessantly from my Khmer studies to watch them through the open door. It was like looking through a window into someone’s dream—the heavy rain made them seem farther away than they really were, and Penh Mao’s joyful cries were just audible above the deafening pounding of the rain on the roof.

I knew Penh Mao had nothing, but that afternoon, I wondered if he wasn’t the richest boy in the world. When I found out a few weeks later how he ended up in Poipet, I was shocked: his mother had sold him to a child trafficker.

One of the hardest parts of working at Homeland is that I have to refrain from judging others. Child trafficking is all too common here; families in desperate poverty are often forced to sell their children to pay back debts, or to put food on the table. I realize I know nothing of the suffering these families face. Intellectually, I understand why I can’t say ‘I would never do that...’

But I still say it! Every time I look at Penh Mao, I say it. And I do judge. It seems impossible to be exposed to the children at Homeland, to care for them, without feeling indignation at what many of them have suffered. Love is so closely tied to hate; they are two threads that wrap around each other and form the bonds that connect us to other human beings. I feel absolutely bound to Penh Mao, and I well up with positive emotion every time I look at him, but I also feel irrepressible anger at his mother for selling him.

While this reaction is satisfying on a visceral, emotional level, it doesn’t stand up to any test of reason. The more I try to identify and define, the more confused I become. The comfortable black and white categories that people use to understand pain and suffering are elusive to me.

Penh Mao’s mother gave him a charm necklace before she sold him to protect him against evil. He is never without it. But where is the evil? Who is to blame for his abandonment? Surely there must be some responsible party?

It is possible Penh Mao is angry at his mother, or at the people who trafficked him, but he doesn’t show it. He is not preoccupied with blaming the world for what happened to him. It’s almost as if he’s forgotten to be angry: his heart is in the present, and every time it rains, he races outside and becomes the king of the world. Maybe when I was a child I was the same way; maybe that’s what I lost when I became an adult. I wonder if I will ever be able to forget again.


-- Jen Hasvold, August 2005

 

 

 

 

 


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